Monday, April 29, 2019

2019, Book 5: No-No Boy by John Okada

Book 1: Close Range by Annie Proulx.  Brokeback Mountain actually wasn't the best short story in this collection; and it's every bit as good as the movie.

Book 2: Life's Work by Willie Parker. If reproductive rights are at all important to you, this is an essential book.

Book 3: Salvage the Bones by Jesmyn Ward.  Remarkable writing really made the setting jump off the page. Ruined for me by the central role dog fighting plays.

Book 4: When Elephants Weep by Jeffrey Moussaief Masson.  Great content about emotions in animals, but not the greatest writing.

Book 5: No-No Boy by John Okada

There are only two books I've ever literally read cover-to-cover without putting down.  No-No Boy by John Okada is one of them.  Right from the beginning, the informal divisions of Japanese-American society immediately after World War 2 are front and center.  If we are being brutally honest, most Americans don't think about any Japanese-Americans most days.  Yet fewer think of the context Japanese-American society provides these Japanese-American individuals.  And yet fewer consider the internal divisions and strife of that Japanese-American society.  And almost no one considers what those divisions must have been like immediately after World War 2.

For anyone who knows not their American history, Japanese-Americans were jailed en masse during World War 2.  Of course, the more innocuous term "internment" is preferred to "jailed," so as not to hurt red-blooded Americans' feelings too much about what evil deeds patriotism can lead to.  Prior to FDR (yes, that liberal hero FDR) signing the order to jail/intern Japanese-Americans, many of them had family in the military.  Many had businesses in their communities.  Many had never set foot on Japanese soil.  Yet they were rounded up, forcibly removed from their homes, often separated from their families and put in camps despite being accused of no crime, except possibly that of collectively gaining too much economic power.

The really bizarre twist is that while jailed/interned, Japanese-American men of the appropriate age (boys really) were offered an out.  If they demonstrated loyalty to the United States by serving in the military, they could leave the camps.  If they refused, they were sentenced to real prison time.  So, the government yanks you out of your life, gives you meager conditions to live in and then asks you to demonstrate loyalty to it as a way to get out of your meager conditions; and if you don't, your conditions get even more meager.

Imagine being such a boy.  Well, you've always considered yourself American.  You were born and raised here, speak perfect English, go to school with everyone else and like the same movies and music.  Why shouldn't you fight for your country?  But, they just uprooted you and took everything from you, your family and lots of very close friends and their families.  They put you in a prison camp, complete with guard towers, barbed wire and squalid living conditions with no guarantee that your home would still be your's and there for you when you got out.  Why should you fight for a government that does that to you?

At the heart of No-No Boy, Okada explores the deep emotional trauma that this turn of events can impose.  There is a single instant in time where you get to decide.  Will you continue your internment and perhaps facing additional jail time for being disloyal?  Or will you risk your life for people who just imprisoned you for no discernible reason, people who, as near as you can tell, don't see you as human?  In that one instant, your two possible futures could not be more disparate and how could you possibly understand the consequences?  Yet there you are.

And this is all just Chapter 1.  This is just the setup.  We find our main character returning to Seattle after serving his time for declining the government's offer, making him a "no-no boy."  Folks who didn't have a choice had already been back for some time and most who had served were already back too.  The main character had to face both of these groups upon return; and even these groups had their own divisions.

Perhaps the central reason I connected so well with this writing is that it came from an East Asian-American (EAA) voice.  There is something unique about the EAA experience in this country.  EAAs are in between in almost every way.  Our daily existence is certainly kinder than what other minorities face, but it is still much less kind than what the majority faces.  Our generational existence and memory often straddles an ocean and so must our identity.  Our politics are shaped by sympathy for the collective that is left of the most-left TV politics and an individual industriousness that is right of the most-right TV politics.  Our places are caricatures of our ancestral homes catering to exotic notions of foreign lands, but what is more American than Chinatown? A voice that knows and understands how this all forms a person is hard to come by. When I read this book, I found such a voice, one that knew me better than the rest.

Sunday, April 7, 2019

Super Bloom, 2019: Preparation

"I'm making an executive decision to go see wildflowers." Though no irony was intended in putting "executive" and "wildflowers" in the same sentence, in hindsight, it was hard not to see it.  Already part of the negotiation was seeing Salvation Mountain in Niland in the same trip.  Driving out, trying to get there and to Anza-Borrego state park and get back home in one day didn't seem worth it.  With a two-day trip decided upon, preparations could begin in earnest.

Procrastination sometimes gets the better of this particular family.  Searching for a pet-friendly hotel began one day, but didn't finish until the day before departure.  Mild panic set in when the possibilities from the prior search could no longer be found.  This Super Bloom thing was more popular than we knew.  We just wanted something to do during Child's spring break and the record rainfall made Parents think seeing wildflowers would be worthwhile.  Dad had just finished reading Last Child in the Woods and wanted to make sure Child got occasional high doses of nature.

Regardless, staring at us were options not at all palatable.  The remaining pet-friendly hotels had unreasonable restrictions: low weight limits, high fees, high-weight-low-fee-but-no-kids, etc.  Eventually, we decided we could afford the high fees and picked a hotel in Palm Springs near places we were already familiar with.  A few clicks later, the reservation was made.

What about the gardeners?  Shit! Fuck! Unlocking the gate and locking up again after them would mean we couldn't leave until fairly late in the day.  Most of day 1's daylight would be gone by the time we reached Salvation Mountain or Anza-Borrego.  Easy, just stay two nights!  If only we would have thought of that before making our reservation!  No matter, there were too many other things to attend to.  We would ask the hotel when we arrived.

The morning of our departure, the gardeners made sure to be later than usual.  After they left, a few final preparations were made.  And they're off!

Super Bloom, 2019: Day 1


All in all, Day 1 was not so eventful.  The drive there was rainier than expected.  Upon seeing the huge wind farm on the way in to Palm Springs, Child continuously marveled.  "LoooOOOK! Windmill!  COOOoool. When I go back to school, I'll tell everyone I saw 5 or 6 dozen windmills," Child said upon setting eyes on San Gorgonio Pass wind farm, home of over 3,000 wind turbines.

Driving down Palm Canyon Dr, we noticed far more foot traffic of a completely basic variety on a weekday afternoon than there had been before.  There were also a lot of newer mall-looking things that these basics were foot trafficking into and out of.  Such direct, grotesque capitalism stood in direct contrast to the mid-century modern, old-gay sensibilities that made us like Palm Springs.

Between our late departure, need to eat and supreme confidence that we had two full days of vacationing in front of us, we first dined at Native Foods Cafe like we always did before proceeding to the hotel.  Upon inquiring about a second night, it had been sold out!  Looks like we would have to improvise.  New plan was to get up early on Day 2 and just do a lot of driving.

In the meanwhile, Mom and Child explored the hotel and thrifted.  Dad looked after Dog, taking a walk around the Palm Springs Convention Center (literally around, as it was closed to the public).  Having been so taken in by the beauty of the built environment before, Dad had never really taken in the natural beauty of Palm Springs.  Nothing like a nice, long evening walk to cure that.  After, Dad and Child swam under the stars at the outdoor pool.  Child loves the water so much, she did her usual insisting that she wasn't cold despite shivering. "I just like to shiver."

Mt San Jacinto at Dusk


Little else of note occurred that night.  Mom did almost get into a fight with a Canadian and noted the poor service all around the city.  Parents have agreed for a long time now that economists should factor quality of retail service as a contrary indicator to economic health.  Bustling as Palm Springs was, this was a reinforcement of that street economist axiom.

Super Bloom, 2019: Day 2

Sniff, sniff
Jingle, jangle
Sniff

Huh?  What the?  Oh, hi, Dog.  It's morning.  You're antsy.  I'll get up, but don't get too excited yet.  I still need to fumble around in the dark to find my clothes and if you're lucky, I'll be able to keep my balance while putting them on.

By the time Dad returns with a freshly relieved Dog, Child and Mom are up and getting dressed, much to Dad's surprise.  In less time than is usual for this family, things are packed, in the car and ready for departure.  After a stop for coffee and a light breakfast (complimentary hotel breakfasts are not to be trusted), the drive to Salvation Mountain commences.

Child had a similar reaction to seeing the Salton Sea as she did to San Gorgonio Pass wind farm.  After years of training, she was able to articulate hesitance.  "I wanna go swimming in there, but I can't because of bird AIDS."  While not biologically a thing, Mom uses "bird AIDS" as an excuse not to trust anything that has been contaminated, something the Salton Sea most definitely is.  Mom relayed what she had discovered in her documentary-watching during the drive.

For reasons explained in the Salton Sea sidebar, the drive to Salvation Mountain is a bleak one.  The landscape is desolate, ruins abound, the smell of alkali dust occasionally roils with rotting fish and the sun beats down mercilessly.  This is, in fact, the perfect transition to Salvation Mountain, a place too bizarre to be placed physically closer to population centers.  The environs wipe your mind clean of any heady expectations of an existence built up from the refineries of comfort.  When all you see is air, dirt and water with some asphalt and an occasional concrete something or other sparsely mixed in, you are staring survival in the face and you know that everything you encounter has been staring much longer.  Thrusting yourself into the arms of something bigger is the only way to counter the never-ending downward draft of basic survival.

Salvation Mountain, front

One man thrust himself so devotedly, he created Salvation Mountain.  Religion isn't big amongst us travelers, but it is the principal force behind this place.  That we can enjoy its splendor and its particular sensibilities should be testament to what a wonderful creation it is.  We were not particularly big fans of The Flintstones, but we were able to enjoy Bedrock City.  Similarly, Salvation Mountain entertained and inspired--and with more fellow visitors.  The aesthetic is similar, bright colors, hand-crafted clay/adobe/plaster, seemingly aimless arrangements of things too fantastic to be real.  Salvation Mountain is what Hundertwasser might have made had he let the American desert strip what was left of his pretension away and he had no funds with which to buy supplies.  Just like the Flintstones camp site, this was a playground for Child and Mom alike, wandering the yellow brick road (not actually made of brick).  Dog made many friends as well.

Salvation Mountain, innards


Though Salvation Mountain is a fully-formed and developed monument unto itself, it was also a seed.  The harsh desert forges survivors.  Even the symbiotic and parasitic survivors need the stout individuals that can mix their environment and the meagerest of supplies into a living.  When some of these saw Salvation Mountain, they realized a community could be created.  Though Slab City had already existed, a new element was drawn to it now, one that founded the only art museum in all of Imperial County.  This place is called East Jesus.  A rotating cast of artists arrives, creates what comes to mind from the junk lying around them and puts it on display.

East Jesus. Something about media, I think.

This was yet another playground for Child and Mom.  Child craves nothing more than things she's never seen before.  Mom craves nothing more than the dystopian dysfunction of society's relationship with stuff manifest itself in mocking reflection, artists using the throwaways of consumption to vividly illustrate just how much gets thrown away.  All manners of scrap metal, vacuum hoses, disembodied doll heads, decapitated doll bodies, plastic bottles, immobile vehicles, vehicle parts, mobile vehicles, electronic parts, full televisions and anything else that might find its way to a dump is far from put back together again.  Instead, it is reimagined and manifested in an art form Child calls Junkee.

East Jesus. Don't think of an elephant.

The confluence of zombies, libertarians and artists in this particular stretch of desert eventually had to be left.  We still had to get to and through Anza-Borrego.  The plan was still to make it back to L.A. before sleep time.  On our way out of town, an Army caravan was going the opposite direction.  Slab City had been founded around an abandoned military base.  Perhaps it was time for reclamation.  One could never tell.  We had one last brush with authorities.  Our proximity to the Mexican border meant that we passed by one border checkpoint on the way to Salvation Mountain.  Another one awaited us on our way to Anza-Borrego.  We turned immediately after the checkpoint onto a desolate highway that would take us to our destination.
East Jesus. Art car adorned with doll parts.

Super blooms fatten the base of the food chain and the effects ripple up.  With more pollen comes more consumers of pollen.  Often this means bees, but in the case of southeast California, it means painted lady butterflies.  The unfortunate consequence of this abundance is that driving more than about 30 mph leads to butterflies on the windshield and grill of the car.  Dad maintained this speed, much to the chagrin of the drivers behind him, who were all too eager to get to the off-road vehicular recreation centers.  Even so, it was impossible to avoid all splats.
Painted lady butterfly. Not my photo.
It was clear as we passed the destinations on the super bloom maps passed out by the state park officials that the super bloom itself had passed.  There were large areas of green that took a light yellow or purple shading.  However, we had missed the main event.  Even some of the hillsides within the confines of Los Angeles had been more colorful with flowers than what we saw.  There was immense consolation that we were in a state park, a place that had been deemed naturally beautiful enough to be set aside by the state long before the word "superbloom" had been used.
Smattering of yellow and purple, but we clearly missed the "super" part of the bloom.
After enjoying the mountainous views of ocotillo-spotted valleys from our vehicle for some time, we turned out to take a few pictures.  By sheer, dumb luck, the turn-out was a trailhead (Bill Kenyon Trail, specifically).  Child and Dad commenced to hiking as Mom tended Dog in the vehicle.  Why dogs were not allowed on the trail was not hard to guess.  Dad tried to explain to Child that many who take the initiative to visit state parks do not respect leash laws and probably don't pick up after their canines, an explanation Child questioned relentlessly while hiking towards a ridge.  Once it was clear that the trail was taking us there, it became a point of anticipation.  When we came up over the ridge of the trail, Child said, "Wow, we can see all of America from here."

🎶Here on the range I belong🎶
A couple hours of hiking were rejuvenating for Child and Dad.  When we got back on the road, we decided to head to Julian, a mountain town with strong tourism driven by people's need to experience quaint.  Mom had visited a few times in her youth, but hadn't for some time.  It was on the way home and would be a good place for those who didn't get to attend to nature's call in nature.

When we arrived in Julian, Mom was relieved that not a whole lot had changed.  Most lodging is in the form of bed and breakfasts, the block of town where the apple pies were hadn't really modernized and almost everything closes at 5 pm.  We wandered into a well--well, a shop that had a well in it anyway.  Here, the proprietor, Lisa, informed us of the early closing times for most of the town and directed us to Heroes for food.  We could not have been more pleasantly surprised.  It's not often a restaurant with a military and law enforcement theme (they're "heroes," get it?) even knows what "vegan" means.  Not only did Heroes have a vegan burger, they had a soup that they took the initiative to inform us was vegan as well.  Both were excellent.  We were again pleasantly surprised when we stopped in to ask about vegan apple pie.  There was an entire set of vegan offerings of pie, not just apple; but we ordered apple anyway and relished in having it served warm to us.

Mom and Dad both noticed someone pan-handling.  She would not have been recognized as a pan-handler in L.A., clothes and body too clean and hair only slightly wild.  However, she did ask people for change.  As Mom and Child entered a shop with a candy mine in it, another person on the corner shouted, "Yeah! and Megadeth too.  I got 'em all!"  While Child was inside mining for candy, Dad got to hear more.  "Hiiii, Tom!"

"Hey! How you feeling?  You're looking good!"

"I'm just waitin' for my sister, you know, the usual." Before Mom and Child returned from the mine, the pan-handler and the corner shouter got together and strolled off on the 78/79.  Shortly after, Mom and Child emerged.  We all hopped back in the car and headed for home.

On the drive back, mountainous woods gave way to wetlands with cows grazing, which in turn gave way to intensively farmed lemon orchards with fruit stands along the street.  We promised that we would make time some other time to procure cheap, fresh produce by the bushel to haul home.  As it was, we had to beat exhaustion in the hours of driving ahead.  And we spent the next morning planning our next road trip to southeast CA.

Super Bloom 2019, Salton Sea sidebar

The Salton Sea, born from an hydrological mistake, spent its formative years completely unsure of itself, but emerged from adolescence with aspirations of rivaling Palm Springs.  This desert oasis was supposed to thrive as a recreational destination for masses from the farther flung metropolises whose residents needed occasional escapes.  Platte maps had been drawn, parcels of land had been sold off, houses built and facilities for not-quite-all varieties of adult debauchery had been built: yacht clubs for the day drinkers, night clubs for the night drinkers, bars for drinkers who didn't like clubs and water recreation of all sorts.  Celebrities started arriving for vacations and it was a genuine tourism destination as it headed into adulthood.

As with any hard-charging lifestyle flinging itself forward in double-time, The Salton Sea's development couldn't be sustained.  Any artificial sea would normally dry out quickly, but irrigation run-off kept The Salton Sea watered.  This run-off wasn't closely monitored or managed.  Over time, it turned the Salton Sea saltier and saltier.  Eventually, sufficiently hot days normal in the region choked the sea of oxygen.  No oxygen, fish die.  Fish die, algae blooms.  Somewhere along the way, botulism has also entered the sea, causing large die-offs of migratory birds seeking some piece of the ever-diminishing wetlands on their routes.  The fish still die by the millions each year, but somehow the tilapia replenish themselves.  Active management has lessened the impact of botulism on the birds.

Even the irrigation run-off can not prevent the dwindling of water.  The sea is evaporating away year-by-climate-change-altered-year, with occasionally long periods of water diversion to various local municipalities accelerating the process.  Houses have been abandoned.  Towns have been hollowed out, growth stunted from the unfulfilled promises, ruins manifesting in empty commercial buildings with caved-in roofs.  These remnants take an unending beating from the desert sun and wind, mostly populated by the desperate or down-on-their-luck.  Farms do sustain some homes and businesses and some genuine desert-dwellers thrive, but the numbers are nowhere near the levels needed to keep these main streets ticking.  In hindsight, it's not clear why anyone thought something as contaminant-ridden as irrigation run-off would be able to sustain any kind of appealing life, but when the west was growing dreams and outgrowing them regularly, it's not hard to imagine grifters convincing wide-eyed newcomers what the next big thing would be.